Ontanon Contrebia Rioja Tempranillo Blanco

Bodegas Ontañón is a 5th generation family-owned and run winery in Rioja Baja (now Rioja Oriental). Here Raquel, Rubén and Maria Pérez Cuevas continue their father Gabriel's work to develop Bodegas Ontañón into one of the most highly-regarded wineries in Rioja. Ontañón has vast swathes of vineyard in this part of Rioja. Whilst wine production in the region is typically very dependent on contracts with grape growers, the Pérez Cuevas family has seen fit to invest heavily in the purchase of its own land and vines. Its 250ha is a testament to the importance it places on controlling grape quality.

The family's vineyards sit high in the Sierra Yerga mountains in the prestigious region surrounding Quel, defying misconceptions that Rioja Baja is one of the lesser sub-regions within Rioja. Many of their vineyards are actually planted at altitudes on a par with, or above, those in Rioja Alta and Alavesa; (La Pasada is their highest vineyard at 800m above sea level, planted in 1979 it is used for Reserva and Gran Reserva wines). The hot and dry Mediterranean climate allows for consistent ripening of the grapes with little disease and this has enabled them to pursue organic production across 57 hectares of vines.

In 1988, a Rioja winemaker found a bunch of white grapes growing amongst the Tempranillo vines in his Murillo de Rio Leza estate in Rioja Baja. After several years of investigation, the Consejo Regulador of Rioja accepted that this was a natural mutation of the usually red Tempranillo grape and approved it as a variety to be grown DOCa Rioja. It is thought that just one generation separates the white and red versions of the grape - similar to white mutations of both Pinot Noir and Garnacha. The grapes are sourced from vineyards at around 600m altitude and are harvested in early October - picked in the early morning and taken immediately to the winery. There they are slowly pressed to extract the must, and the seeds are separated from the must to maintain optimal aromas and flavours during the fermentation process. This occurs over a period of 14 days at controlled temperature. Following fermentation the juice spends time on lees - they've doubled the lees ageing to 4 months for the 2022 vintage, which gives extra body and balances out the ripe fruit flavours.

This is a natural mutation of the red Tempranillo grape - and only a handful of growers in Rioja have Tempranillo Blanco vines. Bodegas Ontañón saw its potential back in 2010 and planted 15 hectares - releasing the first vintage in 2016.

Delicate citrus and white flower aromas with a hint of orange blossom. The palate is soft and round with ripe stone fruit characters, gentle acidity and an elegant, lengthy finish.On